Perched on a rocky promontory overlooking the serene waters of the Étang de l'Olivier, the Oppidum du Castellan in Istres, France, offers a captivating journey into the heart of ancient Celtic civilization. This historical site, with its panoramic views and rich archaeological heritage, is a must-visit for history enthusiasts and casual tourists alike.
The Oppidum du Castellan, dating back to the 6th century BCE, served as a public refuge and a strategic stronghold for the Celts. Its location, 40.7 meters above the Étang de l'Olivier, provided a natural defense and a commanding view of the surrounding landscape. The oppidum was continuously occupied until the 1st century BCE, making it a significant site for understanding the evolution of Celtic society in the region.
Archaeological excavations at the site began in earnest in 1937, led by Joseph Thoret. Subsequent digs by the Association des amis du vieil Istres in 1948, and later by other archaeologists, have uncovered a wealth of artifacts and structures that shed light on the daily lives of its ancient inhabitants. Among the notable discoveries is a Gallo-Roman villa at the base of the oppidum, dating to the 1st century CE, which featured painted walls, goblets, and coins from the reign of Emperor Vespasian.
The geological composition of the Oppidum du Castellan is as fascinating as its history. The site is situated on a chalk and green sandstone terrain, with a rocky spur made of shell-rich molasse. The escarpments reveal layers of marl clay and macigno, indicative of the lignite formation that crowns the summit. This unique geological setting not only provided natural fortifications but also influenced the construction materials used by the ancient Celts.
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The oppidum has yielded an impressive array of artifacts that offer a glimpse into the material culture of its inhabitants. Among the finds are carbonized grape seeds, indicating agricultural practices, and a variety of ceramics, including Aeolian gray ware with wavy decorations, and Ionian pottery with soft pinkish paste and circular red-brown bands. These ceramics suggest trade connections with other Mediterranean cultures, possibly including Marseille.
One of the most intriguing discoveries is a clay cooking plate from the 2nd century BCE, adorned with complex geometric motifs. The plate's design, imprinted with a cord and complemented by other patterns, provides insight into the domestic life and artistic sensibilities of the oppidum's residents.
Perhaps the most enigmatic find at the Oppidum du Castellan is a deeply carved Gallo-Greek inscription on a rock face, located 2.4 meters above the ground. The letters, nearly 20 centimeters tall, form the word ΜΑΤΡΟΝ, which has been translated to mean belonging to the mothers. This inscription is believed to be a dedication to mother goddesses, reflecting the spiritual and religious practices of the Celtic community.
Visitors to the oppidum can still see remnants of the fortifications that once protected this ancient settlement. The northern and northeastern sections of the site feature a terrace-wall from the 1st century BCE, constructed from locally quarried yellowish calcirudite blocks. These walls, though partially ruined, stand as a testament to the engineering skills of the Celts.
Excavations have also revealed the remains of Gaulish houses from the 6th century BCE. Among these is a notable structure with an apsidal layout and a central post hole, which contained an abundance of Aeolian gray pottery and Ionian ceramics. This house, complete with a bread oven and a U-shaped hearth, provides a vivid picture of domestic life in the oppidum.
Today, the Oppidum du Castellan is a site of great archaeological and historical interest. Visitors can explore the rocky promontory, marvel at the ancient inscriptions, and imagine the bustling life of a Celtic community that once thrived here. The site's elevated position offers breathtaking views of the Étang de l'Olivier and the surrounding countryside, making it a perfect spot for both history buffs and nature lovers.
In conclusion, the Oppidum du Castellan in Istres is not just an archaeological site; it is a window into the past, offering a rich tapestry of history, geology, and culture. Its ancient walls and artifacts tell the story of a vibrant Celtic community, their way of life, and their interactions with the broader Mediterranean world. A visit to this remarkable site is a journey through time, providing a deeper understanding of the region's ancient heritage.
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