San Donato, or Chiesa di San Donato as it is known locally, is a remarkable gem nestled in the heart of Genoa's historic center. This enchanting church, dedicated to the martyr bishop Donatus of Arezzo, stands proudly in the Molo district, inviting visitors to step back in time and explore the rich tapestry of Genoese history and architecture.
The origins of San Donato are shrouded in mystery, with the first documented references dating back to the 11th century. However, it is believed that the original church was built much earlier, possibly in the 7th century. The current structure, a splendid example of Genoese Romanesque architecture, was constructed in the early 12th century and expanded later that century. By 1160, it had already become a parish church and the seat of a collegiate chapter.
The church's history is a testament to its resilience. Despite suffering damage during the Wars of the Reunions in the late 17th century, San Donato underwent several restorations, including significant work by the architect Alfredo D’Andrade in the late 19th century. His efforts not only preserved the church but also added elements that enhanced its medieval character, such as the third row of arches on the north tower.
A visit to San Donato is a journey through time. The church's exterior is a harmonious blend of local limestone, black-and-white banded portals, and a reused Roman architrave. The facade, with its medieval charm, was restored in the 19th century, stripping away later additions to reveal its original splendor. The central rose window and the round-arched windows and portals are quintessentially Romanesque, while the pointed arch friezes hint at the Gothic influences that crept in over the centuries.
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One of the most striking features of San Donato is its octagonal bell tower, which is unique in Genoa. This tower, integrated into the church's structure, is adorned with decorative friezes and a series of biforate and triforate windows. The third tier of windows was added during D’Andrade’s restoration, enhancing the tower's already captivating presence.
Stepping inside San Donato, visitors are greeted by a three-aisled basilica, each with its own apse. The interior is divided by twelve columns, reflecting various construction phases. The six original Roman granite columns date back to the church's earliest days, while the later white and black columns with Romanesque capitals were added in the late 12th century. Above, the triforate windows and diverse capitals add to the church's intricate beauty.
The left aisle leads to the Chapel of Saint Joseph, once an oratory for carpenters. This chapel, integrated into the church in the 19th century, houses the church's most significant artwork: a triptych by the Flemish artist Joos van Cleve, depicting the Adoration of the Magi. This masterpiece, originally from a nearby oratory, was stolen in 1974 but fortunately recovered and restored to its rightful place.
San Donato is home to several other artistic treasures, including a 14th-century painting of the Madonna and Child by Nicolò da Voltri and a Madonna del Latte by Barnaba da Modena. The Chapel of Saint Joseph also features a 17th-century Holy Family painting by Domenico Piola, commissioned by the carpenters' guild. Additionally, the church houses a 17th-century crucifix and a marble relief of the Baptism of Jesus, a collaborative work by Ignazio Peschiera and Carlo Rubatto.
The church's journey through history has not been without challenges. During World War II, bombing raids caused significant damage, leading to extensive restoration efforts between 1946 and 1951. These restorations not only repaired the war-inflicted damage but also sought to restore the church's original Romanesque style, removing later additions and rebuilding the side apses on their 12th-century foundations.
In conclusion, San Donato is more than just a church; it is a living testament to Genoa's rich cultural and architectural heritage. Its walls echo the stories of centuries past, and its art and architecture continue to inspire awe and admiration. For anyone visiting Genoa, San Donato is an unmissable destination, offering a glimpse into the city's storied past and its enduring spirit.
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