San Donnino Church
Como

Nestled in the historic heart of Como, San Donnino Church, known locally as Chiesa di San Donnino, stands as a testament to the city’s rich spiritual and architectural heritage. This charming church invites visitors to step back in time and explore its layers of history, from its Romanesque roots to its present-day role in the community.

The History of San Donnino Church

The earliest records of San Donnino Church date back to the late 13th century, when it was part of the Zezio parish. Originally constructed in the Romanesque style, the church has undergone numerous reconstructions, each adding a new chapter to its storied past. The remnants of its initial semicircular apse can still be seen in a small alley behind the current building, whispering secrets of its medieval origins.

In the 14th century, a significant reconstruction transformed the church into a two-nave structure, complete with five altars and a façade adorned with an image of Saint Donnino. The most recent major renovation took place in the 17th century under the patronage of the Archinto bishops of Como. During these renovations, ancient tessellated floors and artifacts were unearthed, adding a layer of archaeological intrigue to the site.

Exploring San Donnino Church

Approaching San Donnino Church, visitors are greeted by a neoclassical portico, designed by Carlo Polti in 1813. This grand entrance, with its stately columns and tympanum, sets the tone for the exploration of the church's interior treasures. Between the portico and the church itself, a wooden Pietà sculpture is tucked into a niche, offering a moment of quiet reflection before entering the sacred space.

The church's bell tower, dating back to 1770 and modified in the 19th century, houses three bells cast in 1947 from the remnants of those requisitioned during World War II. This poignant reminder of resilience and renewal echoes throughout the church grounds.

The Interior and Artistic Highlights

Inside, the church presents a single nave with a barrel-vaulted ceiling, adorned with 16th and 17th-century decorations and frescoes. The walls, lined with Corinthian pilasters designed by Federico Frigerio, lead the eye to the faux apse, beautifully painted by Giuseppe Coduri Vignoli.

The baroque high altar, reconstructed in 1752, is crowned by a 17th-century painting depicting Saint Donnino with the Madonna, Child Jesus, and another saint, possibly Pius V or more likely, Saint Abbondio. The presbytery walls feature frescoes of Moses and Elijah by Francesco Silva, crafted in the 18th century.

The Sacristy and Artistic Treasures

The sacristy is a gallery of sacred art, housing paintings such as Giovanni Domenico Caresana’s Crucifix with Saint Francis and a work by Torildo Conconi. A 15th-century Spanish ivory crucifix from Zaragoza adds an exotic touch to the collection.

Above the entrance, the choir loft, built in 1750 and restored by Federico Frigerio in 1937, holds an organ purchased from the Milan International Exhibition. This instrument replaced an earlier organ now residing in the church of Santa Maria in Rezzonico.

The Chapel and Stained Glass

San Donnino Church boasts four chapels, each a sanctuary of artistic expression. On the left side, the Volpi Chapel, refurbished in the 17th century, features frescoes by Antonio Maria Crespi Castoldi and stucco work by Gian Battista Barberini. Its altar, crafted by Francesco Rusca, displays a painting of the Madonna and Child with Saints Dominic, Philip Neri, and Anthony of Padua.

The Chapel of the Crucifix, commissioned by the Sant'Anna Hospital, showcases luinesque frescoes by Giovanni Domenico Caresana and gilded stuccoes by the Bianchi family. On the right, the Chapel of Saint Anthony of Padua and the Chapel of the Madonna are rich with frescoes and paintings by artists like Giovanni Mauro della Rovere and Lodovico Pogliaghi.

A Living Monument

Today, San Donnino Church serves not only as a historical monument but also as a vibrant part of Como’s religious life, welcoming both local parishioners and members of the Ukrainian Greek-Catholic community. Its walls, adorned with late 20th-century stained glass by Eugenio Rossi, tell stories of faith and artistry, making it a must-visit destination for anyone exploring the cultural tapestry of Como.

In conclusion, San Donnino Church is more than just a building; it is a living narrative of faith, resilience, and artistic achievement. Its rich history and stunning artistic features make it an essential stop for anyone seeking to understand the soul of Como.